安东尼(anthony)

珠宝手工雕刻大师

天赋的手

有一些高级珠宝作品在使用到珍贵的18K金和宝石之前,会先以蜡制作。在Chopard萧邦,进行这项雕刻工作的正是技艺非凡的“工匠大师”安东尼(Anthony)。根据交付给他的图纸,这位奢华珠宝雕刻师凭借工具塑造出新款珠宝的首个三维立体模型。一旦模型完成,它将作为复刻18K金样品的模具使用。

[A note is sustained in the background on string instruments]


(On-screen text: Chopard presents) 


(Anthony is in his workshop, wearing a white coat embroidered with "Chopard Genève". He begins to work sculpting blocks of raw materials.)


I'm an interpreter, which means I am given a drawing, stone or theme. My job is to bring this idea to life.


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)


(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


For me, working with my hands is a fundamental need. It's my passion and a large part of my life.


(A portrait of Anthony.) 


(On-screen text: Anthony, Jeweller-Sculptor Artisan) 


(In his workshop, Anthony looks at a picture of a necklace with a large pendant made up of two entwined fish, their bejewelled fins forming a heart shape surrounded by stones that resemble drops of water. He begins to meticulously sculpt a maquette of the pendant in plasticine, selecting different tools to shape the material.)


I am a sculptor in high jewellery design for Chopard.


(On-screen text: Plasticine modelling)


From this material, I need to produce a jewel, a sculpture or a form.


(He places his work onto a template of the pendant, and melts the material to add some details, comparing it to a photo of the fish.)


I really put my entire being into sculpting a jewel. So, when I'm sculpting an animal, for example, that's slightly fantastic or acrobatic, I become the figure, I become the animal.


(On-screen text: Engraving)


(Anthony traces the outline of his fish pendant onto a block of wax and begins to carve the shapes out, using calipers to precisely measure each part of the piece.)


I look for the angle or pose that is the most evocative, as energetic and graceful as a dancer. So as to convey and reflect an emotion. At Chopard, nothing is set in stone.


(On-screen text: Wax scuplting)


It's a collective effort and I draw on all the opinions around me. It's a combination of everything we want to bring the jewel. It is an endless search. Some creations take a long time, but every second and minute is spent knowingly. It needs to be beautiful, it needs to be poetic.


(Anthony compares his work to his maquette, smoothing and carving it as he goes, adding details such as the fish's eyes, scales and fins.)


I really believe that when we own a jewel, it carries a part of ourselves in it, as well as the influence of the person who sculpted, made or crafted it. It's a kind of artefact or talisman. My passion and drive for sculpting jewellery, I'd love to see it echoed internally, or further afield, or in others, because with all this

technological progress, I feel like craftsmanship is dying and, for me, sculpting jewellery for Chopard helps maintain the flame of craftsmanship, which must never go out.


(Anthony places the finished wax model on top of the picture of the pendant to compare.)


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

“作为Chopard萧邦高级珠宝工坊的珠宝雕刻师,我的工作是将一个想法、一幅绘画、一块宝石或是一个主题付诸现实。这是一个无止境的探索,与我以双手精工细制的使命不谋而合。即使某些作品需要投入大量的精力,但是为了追求非凡效果,每一分每一秒都是值得的。”

安东尼(Anthony),珠宝手工雕刻大师

安东尼(Anthony),珠宝手工雕刻大师

在安东尼身上充分体现了能工巧匠的精妙手法。对于这位2006年加入品牌高级珠宝工坊并专门从事蜡雕的工匠而言,手工不仅仅是一种技艺,也远不止一份职业:它是一种发自内心的热爱。这项工作的挑战在于以蜡块为媒介,将二维设计图转化为短暂的三维立体模型。如果说设计是为了突显宝石的色彩和密度,那么雕刻则是为了展现奢华珠宝的立体造型。

创造力

安东尼借用工具对蜡雕进行独特诠释。他充分发挥其创造力,将到目前为止仍未实现的梦想变为具象 化的现实。他通过凿去多余的蜡使模具成型。在这一过程中,安东尼似乎沉浸在梦境中,仿佛自己也变成了他所塑造的对象。当他制作花朵造型的高级珠宝时,他就变成了花朵,并以他塑造的形象恣意绽放。当他制作动物造型的珠宝时,他就变成了那只动物,并试图模仿其姿势和步态。因为其丰富的想象力,安东尼得以体验宇宙万物的千姿百态!一旦雕塑完成,它将拥有未来奢华珠宝的雏形,并将在失蜡法铸造车间中使用和熔化,从而塑造相似形状的18K金作品。

以精湛技艺传达丰富情感

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