维罗妮卡(Véronique)

机芯装饰工艺大师

装饰工坊

位于弗勒里耶的Chopard萧邦制表工坊装饰车间是一个特别的地方,墙壁上的大型飘窗将周围大自然的丰饶美景尽收眼底。机芯装饰工艺大师维罗妮卡(Véronique)喜欢被这样美丽的风景所包围,以创造出具有美感的作品。机芯装饰工艺就是在这里进行的:日内瓦波纹、倒角、粒面圆纹、圆形缎面打磨饰面、太阳纹图案和Fleurisanne雕纹——所有这些技巧皆彰显腕表机芯的美感以及每一次灵巧手法背后的智慧。

[A sustained note in the background]


(On-screen text: Chopard presents)


(Véronique picks out a tiny part and fixes it in place under a microscope.)


When I first started, I knew nothing about decoration. I instantly liked it. Each part has been shaped by hand and we work on all of them. If we do 6 parts in a row, they'll always be standard but never the same. Each piece is slightly unique.


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)


(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


I like working with my hands because I feel like I'm creating.


(A portrait of Véronique.)


(On-screen text: Véronique, Movement Decorating Artisan)


I work at Fleurier at Chopard Manufacture. I am a chamferer. My job involves embellishing parts that have been roughed out.


(Close-up of Véronique using a tiny sharp tool to cut into the part.)


(On-screen text: Roughing out an angle)


Our work must meet the Poinçon de Genève criteria.


(On-screen text: Satin-brushing a rim)


Parts must be decorated all over and have edges, chamfering, sinks and smoothed-down faces.


(On-screen text: Polishing a sink)


If it's not approved, it won't be a Poinçon de Genève part.


(Véronique cuts a piece of wood at a precise angle and uses it to polish around the angles of the part.)


I'm a patient person, you have to be very determined to learn a trade like this. It requires enormous patience. You must be meticulous, fussy even, and a perfectionist to be able to do a truly excellent job.


(On-screen text: Polishing an angle)


Some parts require 1 or 2 hours of work, so you have to love it and get in your own little bubble. We're concentrated on our work. I can't explain how, but whenever I start a part, I have to find a solution for achieving my goal each time.


(Véronique cleans the piece after filing and smoothing it.)


It's like any artisanal trade, you know when you have to stop. You sense when you're done and can't go any further, because if you do you might deform it, so you have to stop at the right moment.


(On-screen text: Satin-brushing the face)


Once a part has been completed and assembled in the movement, you see the light playing on the chamfers, and that's when everything's revealed.


(Véronique examines her work through an eyepiece. Close-up of the part glinting in the light within the timepiece.)


A bit of ourselves goes into these parts, that's why it's emotional.


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

"对细节之处的精益求精和达成目标之后的满足感是这份职业的魅力所在。"

维罗妮卡(Véronique),机芯装饰工艺大师

维罗妮卡(Véronique),机芯装饰工艺大师

基于与粒面圆纹相同的原理,圆形缎面打磨饰面是一种由重叠的缎面同心圆制成的隐蔽装饰,机芯装饰工艺大师以9微米砂纸不断压印零部件表面,从而提升零部件的亮度,砂纸本身也同时转动,以获得精美而柔和的效果。获得珍贵的日内瓦印记(Poinçon de Genève)的标准之一是避免在机芯零部件上留下任何随机的加工痕迹。因此,构成L.U.C腕表机芯的所有元素都使用微电机进行倒角处理。这是一种为作品注入鲜活生命力和光芒的方式。

Fleurisanne雕纹工艺

值得一提的是零件的太阳纹效果:所有装饰直线都从同一个交叉点射出,就像太阳的光芒一样。日内瓦波纹仅被保留于表桥的可见表面上,而不应用于机芯的功能部件,以免影响其精准度。一旦完工,瑞士腕表机芯看起来就像一件珍贵的金属织物。镜面抛光需要灵活精妙的手工技法,理想效果是能巧妙映射周围的装饰。此外,还有Chopard萧邦联合总裁卡尔-弗雷德里克·舍费尔(Karl-Friedrich Scheufele)15年前复兴的几近失传的Fleurisanne雕刻传统,它本身就是一门艺术,即在瑞士腕表机芯上浮雕花朵和涡纹图案。惟有少数独一珍品或限量生产的表款会经由雕刻师装饰,他们将在珍贵材质上雕刻精美的花纹。

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