让-克洛德
手工绘图师

创作奢华珠宝需要渊博的专业知识!在Chopard萧邦,每一件珠宝都是荟萃情愫、直觉与渴望的伟大成就。通过像让-克洛德这样的艺术大师们循序渐进的操作,将抽象的理念勾勒成绽现独特美感的精致臻宝。在打造一款作品前,需要根据设计理念的二维表现形式将虚拟的构想化为现实。让-克洛德在绘图师的设计工作室中进行自己的手艺创作。Chopard萧邦不断推陈出新,缔造一个又一个的珠宝传奇。同时设计的多件作品各有千秋,但是皆遵循同一原则:每件作品皆蕴含丰富情感!

[A sustained note in the background] 


(On-screen text: Chopard presents) 


(Jean-Claude puts sheets of paper covered in pencil drawings onto a desk and begins to sketch ideas, including a facetted heart shape surrounded by teardrop-shaped jewels. He briefly holds up a sparkling piece of jewellery made from his design.)


In the early days I wanted to design advertising graphics. But the meanders of life led me to begin designing jewellery.


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.) (On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


The hand is a prodigious tool.


(A portrait of Jean-Claude.) 


(On-screen text: Design Drafting Artisan)


It is an extension of the soul.


(Jean-Claude sits at his drawing board, sets up his equipment and begins to draw.)


I started working for Chopard 18 years ago.


(On-screen text: Sketch the future jewel) 


(Jean-Claude begins to trace out lines with a mechanical pencil that transform into floral shapes and begin to take on the form of the heart-shaped piece of jewellery.)


My work is driven above all else by a passion for drawing. A design often begins with a research stage, making sketches. We tend to say that we are like sponges, we feed on everything. It can be a small architectural detail, or the exhibition we're going to see, it can be a stroll, autumn leaves underfoot… And then one shape summons another. And then at some point, we are drawn to a composition, and begin to develop it.


(On-screen text: Inking the final drawing) 


(Jean-Claude traces over the outlines of his drawing using a black liner.)


Our mission, is to create designs that are relevant, in other words, that satisfy me from an aesthetic point of view.


(On-screen text: Adding colour)


And these designs encounter a sense of belonging in others, they stimulate emotion, leading to the purchase.


(Jean-Claude uses ink pens in different shades of blue and purple to colour his design, adding glints and reflects with white gouache paint.)


At that moment I feel that I have succeeded in my mission. On a more personal note, what I like about a piece of jewellery, is when there's a little touch of humour, of mischief. The emotion that I sometimes feel, is when the hand has finally succeeded in accurately translating the idea that I had in mind.


(Jean-Claude holds up the finished piece of jewellery next to his original design and studies it proudly.)


I consider myself a craftsman. To me, drawing is like words, it's a means of expression, it's a language, it's my language anyway.


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

"我将我的想法和草图交给让-克洛德和其他手工绘图师。我经常将激发自己灵感的精美宝石带到绘图大师们的办公室中,由他们以合适的方式致敬这些臻美宝石。."
-
Chopard萧邦联合总裁卡罗琳·舍费尔

让-克洛德:手工绘图师

最珍贵也最难以掌握的绘画技巧,便是水粉技法。润色精致细腻的水粉画稿本身就是一件艺术杰作。

奢华珠宝作品的诞生,源自卡罗琳•舍费尔(Caroline Scheufele)的创意灵思。无论是系列作品、珠宝套装、独一珍品或是特别定制,皆由这位Chopard萧邦联合总裁亲自操刀设计。整个过程从绘图开始,也是杰作第一次作为图形亮相。与建筑设计图纸一样,它是向参与这款珠宝加工制作的所有手工艺大师们提供的一份参考资料。确认造型后,绘制出黑白水墨画稿,随后再为画稿上色,并以水粉颜料增添光感。创作设计图初稿的艺术大师也负责绘制水粉画稿,并随时跟进这一项目在工坊中的进展。 手工绘图大师会根据自己希望表达或强调的重点,在同一幅设计图上运用多种绘画技巧。

毡笔画稿与彩铅画稿呈现的效果截然不同,前者色彩将更显鲜艳分明,水彩则能为画稿增添一定程度的透明质感。设计图始终以一比一的比例呈现奢华珠宝,水粉画中遵循光线角度为45度的原则。而这种光影对比,则给人以三维立体的视觉效果。首先以黑色铅笔描绘出阴影,随后再进行彩色渲染。光影变化令设计图更显立体,而上色则为所运用的材质提供指示:金质的色调,宝石的种类,尺寸等一目了然。在工坊中,沿着一面墙摆满了一本本浅褐色皮革封面的大型画册,画册中收藏的是品牌之前推出的系列作品的水粉画设计原稿,其中包括品牌150年来的众多奢华珠宝珍藏。这些微绘画作,如同为珠宝作品描绘的画像,放于避光处精心保存

Artisan of emotions
邂逅品牌工匠大师