Chopard萧邦不仅仅是一家奢华珠宝和腕表制造商。培训是代代经营着Chopard萧邦品牌的舍费尔家族的重要支柱和理念。Chopard萧邦坚信“能工巧匠”是Chopard Manufacture中最宝贵的资产之一,因此品牌在弗勒里耶和日内瓦设立了自有学徒制表工坊,以培养未来的工匠大师。在弗勒里耶,学徒们学习制表和微型机械的知识; 在日内瓦,他们接受制表师、珠宝师、微型机械师和手表外观润饰师的培训。
[A sustained note on string instruments]
(On-screen text: Chopard presents)
(Hands carefully unfold a white cloth, revealing a precious piece of jewellery within. Benjamin, in his workshop, wears a white lab coat and sketches with a mechanical pencil. He turns a black stone over in his hands.)
When I was 8, the first year we moved to Europe, a friend of my parents gave me a book on gemology. I think I took it with me everywhere from the ages of 8 to 14.
[Soft piano music plays]
(On-screen text: Chopard presents)
(Hands carefully unfold a white cloth, revealing a precious piece of jewellery within. Benjamin, in his workshop, wears a white lab coat and sketches with a mechanical pencil. He turns a black stone over in his hands.)
[Soft piano music plays]
(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)
(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)
(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)
Hands are very interesting because by looking at something you managed to gain a better... idea of its form, but actually by touching it you can be much more precise.
(A portrait of Benjamin.)
(On-screen text: Benjamin, Apprentice Jeweler)
So sometimes, when I need to check something, I close my eyes.
(On-screen text: Design)
Jewelry is something that dates back to before the first traces of writing. I really like that I am helping to continue it.
(Benjamin sketches in his workshop.)
I started out making jewelry from copper wire so I could try to learn.
(On-screen text: Preparing the materials)
I wanted to start using a blowtorch so I could weld.
(Benjamin lights a blowtorch, plunges a piece into its flame then into water to cool it.)
I enjoyed it so much that I took the pieces I made and used them as my portfolio and I applied to various different houses for an apprenticeship in jewelry-making.
(Benjamin uses various tools to expertly shape metal.)
In my first year, I made two Greek-inspired pieces. Then, in my second and third years, I made some slightly more Egyptian pieces. I then started to make pieces in a more Renaissance style. There are several competitions in the 4th year of the apprenticeship and one of them is the design competition. We're all given an envelope with a theme, as well as stones to use in the piece.
(On-screen text: Maquette)
The theme was the relationship between the passage of time, nature and human beings. I did a slightly modernized version of the great chain of being by making 12 items and each item used a different material to represent a different link in the chain of being. I took prehistoric materials for the bottom of the chain and then I followed the order of evolution until I reached human beings.
(Benjamin compares a prototype with the molded version.)
We are lucky as Chopard apprentices because we have a supervisor who is deeply interested in the history of art and of the profession in general. We gain knowledge that is increasingly rare and increasingly important.
(Benjamin arranges inserts made of different materials into the piece of jewelry.)
There is a great deal of historic heritage in artisanal trades that dates back centuries or millennia. So we feel very connected to ancient history.
(On-screen text: Presenting the piece)
We actually feel connected to the history of the profession as a whole and we know it is also our role to pass it on to future generations.
(On-screen text: Sharing the knowledge)
(Benjamin holds up the finished piece.)
(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)
培训是确保制表和珠宝古老技艺得以延续的唯一途径。没有传承,这些致力于美的专业技艺就没有未来。
卡尔-弗雷德里克·舍费尔(Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
一部分在Chopard萧邦接受培训的未来珠宝师在完成学业后可能会为品牌效力。本杰明(Benjamin)的情况就是如此,他原本计划在大学学习艺术史,但最终选择花一年时间参与创意项目。2016年1月,他在Chopard萧邦接受为期一周的实习。在结束奢华珠宝制作领域的学徒生涯后,他随后在创意部门任职。在培训期间,本杰明从原材料开始,学习了各种手工技艺。
正式的学徒必须能够制作镍银、黄铜、银和金,他对此充满热情:“Chopard萧邦作为一个整体,远远超出了培训的官方要求,它还致力于传授如今已不再使用的传统技艺。就我而言,我很幸运有一位培训师根据联邦学徒条例教我们现代珠宝知识以及许多传统技艺,同时让我们能够使用大量原材料。”2008年,凭借这一承诺,Chopard Manufacture荣获日内瓦州颁发的“应用艺术”类别“最佳培训公司奖”。
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