宝石赋予高级珠宝作品闪耀光芒与瑰丽色彩,没有这些宝石,珠宝便黯然失色,失去珍贵价值。而若宝石缺少支承的精巧架构,也无法在珠宝上璀璨生辉。因此,必须以尽可能巧妙独特的镶嵌方式,令宝石绽现迷人的魅力。珠宝镶嵌也是一种雕刻艺术形式,被视为采用贵金属打造的立体浮雕——金材质或铂金经精雕细刻后用于固定宝石。
[A sustained note in the background]
(On-screen text: Chopard presents)
(A necklace of precious stones glimmers against a black background, the light sparkling off the different facets)
I think a good gem-setter goes to a lot of trouble and doesn't just do it because it's a job. It's much more than that for me.
(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)
[Soft piano music plays]
(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)
(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)
(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)
I feel like an artist painting a picture, but instead I'm painting a jewel.
(A portrait of Carlos.)
(On-screen text: Carlos, Gemsetting Artisan)
(Carlos in his workshop studies a necklace through a microscope.)
I'm a master gem-setter at Chopard.
(On-screen text: Receipt of the jewellery structure)
(Carlos gently handles unfinished pieces of jewellery, covered with prongs ready to be decorated with gemstones.)
When I receive a piece, I also receive its design.
(On-screen text: Diamond selection based on size and shape)
After that, I put the piece in setter's cement and start to position the stones according to the plans.
(Carlos heats a piece of setting cement with a glowing open flame and arranges it onto a wooden template before carefully placing the piece of jewellery.)
(On-screen text: Cementing the gems)
It's different to working with sapphires or rubies, it's different to working with emeralds and even more so to working with amethysts or topazes, because diamonds are that much harder. Sapphires and rubies stay in place well, but emeralds, although fragile, speak to you. So you have to know how to listen and stop at the right moment.
(On-screen text: Adjusting the gems)
(Carlos chooses a gem and carefully places it into the seat.)
Often, my heart beats a bit faster when they are extremely valuable gemstones. There's a risk of damaging the piece or damaging the stone. It's experience that tells you how far you can go.
(On-screen text: Filing the prongs)
(A tiny tool is used to file the edges of the prongs and the seat to allow the mounting of a gemstone.)
You have to be really attentive and dexterous to showcase the stone. When it is finely crafted, it shines so brightly that the stone appears even bigger.
(On-screen text: Adjusting the prong height)
(Pliers are used to meticulously clip the prongs to a perfect fit around the gemstones.)
There's always something to learn. The challenge is never saying: "I know how to do it all." If you don't have passion, you can never make anything magnificent.
(On-screen text: Recutting the prongs to the shape of an eagle's claw)
I do everything to ensure the stones stay put forever. Mine's a lifetime guarantee!
(On-screen text: Final check of the gem-setting)
(Carlos holds up his work to examine the sparkling stones in their seats, and carefully arranges the finished piece of jewellery.)
That was also why they asked me to come and contribute to the overall symphony.
(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)
“宝石镶嵌工艺实质上是一门掌控极致的艺术,必须在取与舍之间斟酌,在力度与缥缈之间权衡,看似对立矛盾,实则相辅相成。 ”
卡洛斯, 宝石手工镶嵌大师
宝石手工镶嵌大师卡洛斯(Carlos)堪称一位魔术师,他在Chopard萧邦高级珠宝工坊中拥有自己的专属工位。他能够将瑰丽宝石与金材质、铂金以及钛金属相结合,而没有人真正掌握它是如何完成的……贵金属作为稳稳托举宝石的基座,令宝石更显流光溢彩、璀璨夺目,两者相辅相成,缺一不可。贵金属与宝石之间的结合,由工匠们在日内瓦的工坊中借助双目镜徒手完成。工匠们屏息凝神,反复磨砺各有所长的细腻工艺,手法各不相同,正如每一颗宝石皆拥有引以为傲的独特之处。 宝石作品和饰有Chopard萧邦标志的高级珠宝套装均出自这位艺术家之手,他在看到和触摸到珍贵宝石时总会心跳加速。
宝石镶嵌工艺是一项需要耐心细致的艺术,在气定神闲的同时,还需做到自我控制。多年辛勤工作,让卡洛斯拥有上述卓越品质,同时积累了丰富经验。他以恰到好处的手法托举重达几十克拉的硕大祖母绿,或绽现犹如泻湖般湛蓝滟潋波光的帕拉伊巴碧玺等精致华美的宝石。若用力过度,也许就会令宝石失却灵动神采。看到一款镶嵌精致宝石的珠宝作品,通常会被瑰丽动人的美感所折服,而在这匠心杰作的背后,则凝聚着珠宝手工镶嵌大师们的精湛技艺。
以精湛技艺传达丰富情感
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