娜塔莉

Fleurisanne雕刻工艺大师

Chopard萧邦传统

十九世纪,Fleurisanne雕刻工艺发展至顶峰,此时,弗勒里耶的制表工坊以精美繁复的涡纹与花卉图案来装饰时计的机芯。而后,这项传统工艺逐渐被人淡忘,多年前,Chopard萧邦联合总裁卡尔-弗雷德里克·舍费尔(Karl-Friedrich Scheufele)希望复兴这项传统工艺,于是,在娜塔莉(Nathalie)的协助下,Fleurisanne雕刻工艺来装饰品牌多款独一珍品或限量版时计机芯。从2004年开始担任Chopard萧邦装饰工艺师的娜塔莉,如今已成为了Fleurisanne雕刻工艺大师,精妙奥秘的雕刻工艺,已被她纯熟掌握。 

[A note is sustained in the background]


(On-screen text: Chopard presents)


(A gauzy, abstract close-up of the light reflecting off gemstones and metal surfaces.)


I don’t know if I connect the past to the future but I try to convey emotions.


(On-screen text: Relief-etching the flower)


(Nathalie uses a tiny chisel to engrave a piece bearing the inscription "L.U.CHOPARD" under a microscope.)


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)


(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


My hands are guided by my thoughts when I'm engraving something.


(A portrait of Nathalie.) 


(On-screen text: Nathalie, Fleurisanne-Engraving Artisan)


I joined the watchmaking world 15 years ago, but from my earliest childhood I loved drawing. It was a passion, essential to me. Then I started to work with my hands.


(On-screen text: Tracing the motif on the model)


(Close-up of a picture of an engraved piece, then of a blowtorch used to heat the piece. In her workshop, Nathalie selects a tool and begins to engrave patterns onto the heated piece.)


I was taught and trained in-house in chamfering techniques, but then I wanted to do something more artistic. I asked Chopard if they wanted to set up an engraving workshop.


(On-screen text: Sketching the outlines of the flowers)


And Mr Scheufele said to me: "At the moment, there is a fob watch in the museum. I want you to reproduce the swirls on a tourbillon movement." Wow… So we looked at it with the eyepiece, and something magical happened.


(Nathalie etches intricate floral patterns into the metal. Close-up of the inner workings of a timepiece with engraved golden flowers.)


I felt like I was travelling back in time. By magnifying the piece, I was able to see where the engraver had cut it. It's incredible, it's like I'm painting a picture. I make cuts, I bring it to life, I give it depth and emotions. And sometimes, with a single stroke of the chisel, a magical glint is produced. I've always loved painting because it soothes me and when I engrave, it’s the same. I'm in my bubble, I can't hear anything, I cut myself off from the world. There's just my engraving and me.


(On-screen text: Pricking the background dot by dot)


(Nathalie uses a pointed tool to prick the deeper parts of the engraved piece, highlighting the raised patterns and swirls.)


And I will leave a mark on the world too, as perhaps when I'm no longer here, the engraving will still be here with my own touch.


(Nathalie inspects a finished timepiece with a smile, turning it over in her hands so the jewels and patterns glint.)


I think the greatest reward is seeing clients when they visit the company and they're enthralled. That's the greatest gift.


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

"宛如一场邂逅,团队中的一名成员渴望学习这项艺术工艺,而我们也希望为其提供进修、实践并最终制作出备受青睐的佳作的机会,同时也令弗勒里耶这项悠久传统工艺得以延续传承。."

卡尔-弗雷德里克·舍费尔(Karl-Friedrich Scheufele)

娜塔莉, Fleurisanne雕刻工艺大师

娜塔莉曾在铸币厂进修,并参加过三维造型设计培训,以雕塑形式重现设计构想,即使历经多次失败、迷惘,仍满怀信心,最终开始了自己的Fleurisanne雕刻事业。这位艺术工艺大师在自己的工作台前,设计出装饰涡纹和其他精妙图案的机芯桥架铅笔素描手稿。看似随意一笔画就,实则需要对立体与平面图形了如指掌,方可胸有成竹。

弗勒里耶风格瑞士腕表机芯

她首先用雕刻刀在需要处理的表面标记出图案,随后再剔除花卉图案周围的材质,营造出立体浮雕效果。这些精美花朵在贵金属表面上呼之欲出,一如浅浮雕般生动立体。然而,这样的精妙装饰还远不足以彰显机芯的弗勒里耶艺术风格,还需要以雕刻刀将纹样图案背景逐一镂空,呈现明暗交替的通透效果。随后,还要将图案抛光。而抛光工序,也极为考验手工艺大师的技巧,因为黄金质地柔软,极易出现划痕,要打磨出光滑可鉴的效果,并非易事。

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